Tools and equipmentĭepending on the size of the team adjust the quantity of equipment taken to the site. Undertake a risk assessment for both project and site. These are usually determined by the lie of the land (a post at every change of direction or major change of gradient), but straining posts can be up to 110m apart, although 50m is preferable. Work out the exact line of the fence and the positions of the straining posts. Visit the work site in advance to gain a clear idea of what you will be doing on the day.Īssess the suitability of the project for the group you will be leading and the time available. Preparation and working with groups Site Visit SeasonĪny time of year, and the relatively high amount of physical activity involved can mean it can be done on colder days. The use of gripples or joint blocks is also acceptable. When joining netting overlap it by at least two meshes don’t join it end to end. Use a stretcher bar to ensure equal tension in all lines, or use two wire strainers in tandem: strain up and fix the top and bottom wires, then work inwards. This does not usually need to be supported by line wires except on long runs.Įrect the netting once the intermediate posts are in place. The netting should be attached to the line wire by pig rings or similar devices. Fold back away from area to be protected.
Construct the fence as a post and wire fence, then attach the netting and pull it tight by hand. These need to be supported by a line wire top and bottom, with a centre line on tall sections. To finish off, saw off any minor damage to the posts, nail up splits and ensure cut wire ends are sunk into the posts.
On other posts the wire should be free to move. Staples should be put in diagonally and only driven home on straining posts. Don’t add anything to give extra leverage. The arm on the wire strainer is adequate. On uneven ground you may have to allow some variation in height and spacing to achieve a smooth line. Knock down any posts that are too high as you go along. Use a measuring stick to get the correct height and spacing of the wires. Strain and staple up the top wire first and work downwards. When using a drivall be particularly careful that the post is upright and the people using it wear safety helmets. While two people drive a post in, a third should be checking that it is straight. Take care to ensure the posts are upright and in line. Intermediate posts should be 23m apart for stock fences, about 4m apart for rabbit fences. This will then guide the siting of the intermediate posts. Fixing the lineīetween turning points, attach a temporary wire, low own, ensuring it is not too tight and does not catch the ground.
Backfill ensuring tamping in layers.Īttach the struts on opposite side from strain. Next to the cross piece place a large stone (heel stone) at the base of the hole. Post and wire fencingĮxcavate a hole for the posts as instructed opposite.Ĭut a slot in the base of the hole to allow for a cross piece (foot) to be attached to the post. Working in pairs attach the rails to the posts ensuring rail ends are staggered.Ĭhanges in direction can be made by cutting and sinking in the rails into the post.
Nail the rails with galvanized nails driven in at an angle, ensuring the nails are not directly above one another and are set a few centimetres apart. If no stone is available use soil tamped down in layers. NB Stone filling only works really well with square posts. Of sufficient depth (approx 30 % of total post length) to ensure the stability of the post after backfilling.Wide enough to allow firming up around the post to be carried out.Mark out with a spade the size of the hole. Locate the straining and turning post holes accounting for changes in slope and direction of the fence line. When replacing or repairing a fence, try to leave old fence posts in place as they provide great habitat for lichens. Make sure the fence line is clear of undergrowth, overhanging vegetation and old fence materials so that you have room to work.
Hands-on techniques on how to build a fence Clearing the fence line Different types of fences have been devised to suit particular habitats and functions. They control access of people, wildlife and grazing livestock and are often built in conjunction with footpaths or other forms of access work. Fences are sometimes used to protect newly planted trees or to enclose areas which need to regenerate.